First, get the idea out of your head about playing flush draws with high cards on a consistent basis. There are times where this may be a good play, but in many cases, this is a one way hand only. A player that gets three suited high cards may think they have a good hand, but in actuality they are looking at a one way hand. In regular stud, there would be added strength due to the high pair possibilities. The high pair possibilities don’t buy you as much due to the low straight and flush chances that can present themselves in this game. As a result, a high flush draw is a marginal at best proposition.

Clearly the best flush draw in Stud 8 would be three straight flush cards. This would be along the lines of 3-4-5 suited or even A-2-3 suited. Of course, the more outs you have for your straight, the stronger the hand. Even a 6-7-8 is playable in this case, but be careful to make sure that you improve to a potentially strong hand. If you are not drawing to a straight or a flush after 4th street, your hand becomes very marginal.

After a three cards straight flush, your best flushes are those that include an ace. The main reason behind this is the fact that you are drawing to an ace high flush if you hit your flush. If you pair your ace, you are also in decent shape to have or draw to the best high hand as well.

After flushes that have an ace, you want a three card seven or a three card six that are suited. With the three card seven, you are drawing to a decent low with your flush. With the three card six, you are drawing to a straight as well as the flush.

Be careful of playing three card suited eight that does not have an ace or that can complete to a flush. If you do not improve to a flush and improve to a low draw, your low draw will likely be 2nd best or worse. With a three card suited eight, in many cases you will dump this hand if you do not improve on 4th.

On final tip would be to abandon your hand on 4th street if you do not improve in some way. The main reason is that when you don’t improve on 4th, you must catch 66.7% of your remaining cards to make your hand. These are long odds and not worth drawing to.

Not all flush draws in Stud 8 are created equal. Knowing which draws to play will help you to increase your profits in cash games and help you pick up chips in tournaments. Good luck to you at the tables.

First, in regular Stud, when you get a rolled up set, this is a really good time for a slow play, especially if you are at a tight table. If you are at a tight table, you want to keep players in to try and maximize your value. You will want to consider smooth calling your set on Third Street to try and keep some players in. If your game is somewhat loose, you can consider raising back, but only if you think that it won’t raise warning flags and cause everyone to fold.

One thing to note in Stud high is that if your set is small, then you gain some deception value. If you were to raise or call with a small card showing, then likely your opponents are going to put you on a hand such as a big pair or a small pair hoping to catch lucky.

Once you proceed to Fourth Street, how you play will depend on what everyone catches. If your opponent pairs his door card, then there is a chance they now have a set. If their potential set is higher than yours, it is time to go into defensive mode. Slow down a bit and see what unfolds.

Next, what if you catch the case card? Now you have quads. What do you do? If you check, then chances are everyone else will check as they will think you are trying to slow play a set. I would bet here in most any case except for when another player pairs their door card. If someone pairs their door card, I am going to check to pretend like I am scared of their pair or set. Many times this will induce a bet. When that happens, I will continue the slow play until Fifth Street. Other than when someone has a pair on board, if you bet out with a pair, you are only going to get called by someone that has either made two pair, a set of their own, or if they have a big draw. That is assuming your players are good players.

Once your reach Fifth Street, being able to place your opponents on hands is key to what type of action you will make. If you still only have a set, what are your opponents holding and / or drawing to? If it looks like they might be still drawing, try and bet to force them out. If they look to have a made hand like two pair, bet into them to punish them. If it is possible that they have a made hand and you have not improved your hand, you may want to check and call down bets from them if they bet. If you have improved to a full house or quads, at this point, bet out unless their board is such where a check will induce a bet.

The same things apply to Sixth Street as Fifth Street, but if you have not improved your set, you need to pay careful attention to what is out there. Continue to jam the pot when necessary and just check and call when appropriate. When we reach Seventh Street, if I think I am leading going into seventh, I will usually be dark. Sometimes I will check my card to see if I have improved if the other person looks to have a big draw or a similar big hand. If I bet out and am raised, I will reraise if I have improved and only call when I have not. I will not fold in any case here as the pot is too big to fold. If I only have a set and they have outdrawn me, then very well, I have gotten unlucky. However, if they have caught two pair, a lower set, or if they have caught a made hand and I have a full house or quad, then I will take a big pot.

In Stud 8 or Better, things are a little different. Because there are possibilities for split pots and in many cases, you will be going high only, you want to push your set from the start. If your door card is higher than an eight, a really astute player may put you on a set, but many weaker players will figure you have a big pair. Of course, this will encourage the low draws to come into the pot.

In Stud 8, you need to be more careful of low straights and flushes. You really want your hand to improve to a full house or better when you play Stud 8 and start with a set. Don’t get cute if you get a low set and try and slow play it because you will look like you are going low. Play it fast just like you have a big low. That will be enough for deception. If you happen to catch a card or two that makes it look like your low has improved, then you can force them out the pot. Otherwise, if you slow play, you might slow play yourself into a losing hand.

When you start with a set in Stud, you are a huge favorite. A majority of the time you will win with the hand. You won’t start with a rolled up set that often, so when you do, take advantage of the situation and put yourself in the best chance to win. Good luck to you at the tables.

First, you need to know what cards are needed to improve your own hand. Let’s say you start with a J-10-9 unsuited. Suited cards right now are of little consequence. You know you need Q or an 8 to work towards your straight. You also need to consider the kings and sevens that are out. Then you need to consider the J’s, 10’s, and 9’s out. If you noticed, I mentioned what you will need to consider in the order of importance. Next look around. Next, I like to incorporate a point counting system to determine to stay in the hand to chase the straight. The card on either side of my 3 card straight is worth 1 point, and the secondary cards are ½ point. In our example the queens and eights are 1 point each and the kings and 7’s are half points. If you look around and come up with more than 2 points worth of cards, then you need to get out. If you don’t, then you need to commit to memory how many of your cards are out.

At this point card memorization becomes easy. Let’s say that players 2,4,7, and 8 fold and the other three stay in the hand. How many cards do you need to memorize at this point? The answer is four. Why do you need to memorize the other player’s cards? They are right there in front of you. I know this sounds simplistic, but many people don’t see the forest for the trees. As the hand progresses, at this point you need to pay attention to what the plays start to fold and try and commit those cards to memory.

Now there may be times to where committing a folding player’s cards to memory is next to irrelevant. For example, if you are against two opponents and one is holding K-10-J, what purpose does memorizing a folding player’s 4-6-2 serve? None. If the cards that are being folded are not relevant to the rest of the hand, then don’t worry about them. Granted, if the same example was related to Stud 8, then you would need to commit those cards to memory as the low cards take away outs from lows.

The point of card memorization is to start out memorizing all cards that are folded and then memorize those that are important to the hand. This will help you in the early going while you are mastering this skill.

First, you need to identify the targets at the table that will give up their hand to raises. Early in a Stud tournament, I tend to be one of these targets. There is little sense in playing poor hands or weak starting hands to raises early in the event. The antes and betting levels are just too low to put chips at risk. The catch with this type of thinking is that some players do not know how to change gears later in tournaments. They continue to wait, and these players are ones you can make raises into.

Pay attention to your position relative to the bring-in. Many hands later in a tournament will be heads-up and if you are in later position, you can make a raise into the bring-in. It is very hard for a 2,3, or 4 to make a call unless they have something strong in the hole.

Play your big cards strong late in a tournament. If you have the high card on the board, feel free to complete the bet a little more often. There are many instances where you will take the pot down right there. When someone calls, pay close attention to their play, and if they raise back, you must then make a decision whether you want to chase with a bluff or give it up.

Beware the rocks! If a rock is still in the tournament late, chances are they are getting low on chips unless they have gotten very good cards. They will likely only commit their chips with strong starting hands. Unless you have the chips to gamble with, I would only follow a rock into the pot with another strong hand.

If you are a short stack, pick a spot to be aggressive in. This past July, I was in a Stud 8 tournament approaching the money as the 2nd or 3rd shortest stack in the room and the shortest stack at my table. I was showing a King up against the rest of the table and in around middle position. I completed the bet and everyone folded to me. I won the antes and the bring-in of another player. This would allow me to sit back and try and find another hand. I actually chopped a couple of pots later on and made the money of the event. That one spot where I was able to steal a pot allowed me to pick up enough chips until I could find a better spot. Sometimes one pot in the right spot can make all the difference.

Next time you are getting deep in a stud tournament, remember some of the above examples. Stealing more blinds will help keep your stack ahead of the curve and hopefully help you reach the final table.

I play my hole cards a little different than a lot of players. Most players will wait until they get their entire hand before looking at their cards or they wait until it is their turn to act. Personally, I look at the first card as soon as it’s dealt and then do the same with the second. This allows me time to be able to look at everyone’s up cards as they come out. If you make a habit of looking in your cards in this way, it will be hard to put you on a hand.

First, let’s talk about buried small pairs up to nines. When you are dealt this type of buried pair, you are hoping for two things, you either want the bring-in or you want to be in later position so that you can be one of the last to act. Unless your door card is a high card, you are really looking for this hand to hit a set. The first thing you want to do is look and see if any of your cards are out. If so, then there is little sense in playing this hand any further unless you happen to have the high card showing or are in late position facing the bring-in. At this point, you would represent a pair of your door card.

If none of your cards are out, let’s consider your kicker. If your kicker is small, then you will likely want to limp along. Also, is anyone else holding your door card? If nobody else is, you may be able to take the pot on fourth if you pair your door card. Players will likely give you credit for a set and fold. If any of your door card is out, you are really wanting to hit your set now. If there is a raise, you will want to get out of the hand as you only have 2 outs for true improvement.

What do you do if you hit your set with your buried small pair? At this point, I will tend to bet out or even raise. Many players will figure you had a pair of your door card and that you hit a second pair. If you show an 8 and catch a four, they will likely call along. They may even raise if they have a big pair in the hopes to build the pot if they pair up one of their other cards. One you hit set with your buried pair, you best bet is to push the action until you have a reason to slow down.

Buried pairs 10 and above are a little trickier to play. Some people will just play their hand aggressively and raise, but if you are sitting at a table and a 6 completes or raises into other big cards, you are going to put them on a big pair, usually Aces. How I play my big pair will depend on my door card and the action ahead of me.

If there is a lot of action ahead of me from cards that are lower than my buried pair, I am going to raise. I am also going to do the same if my kicker is a high kicker, especially an Ace. I am going to represent that pair and try and push players out. If you raise someone with a low door card and then catch a king or ace, there is a good chance that they will fold. However, If you raise with an Ace or King with buried 10’s and catch a 10, you will likely get called down by another pair hoping to catch good.

If I limp into a pot with a big pair with a low door card and my door card pairs, then I am going to bet the hand. I am going to represent that I just hit a set and try to either take the pot there or punish players that feel like chasing me.

A mistake that I see a lot with people that play buried pairs comes from the bring-in. Some players will do a straight completion from the bring-in with a buried pair. This sort of play tells everyone that you have a big hand in the hole and in most cases, all you are going to win is the ante’s. Now if you are short stacked, this is a fine move as chances are you will be called by someone hoping to catch lucky. Otherwise, this is a mistake. A similar mistake is made by a bring-in that re-raise with a buried pair. With the exception of a late position raiser trying to steal the ante’s, this is usually a bad move as well. You are telegraphing your hand, and will cost yourself money.

Now, I would like to give you a word of caution, especially at lower limit Seven Card Stud. If you play a buried pair and hit your set, be careful of your opponent pairing their door card. If your opponent has a door card higher than your hole cards and pair’s up, in many cases you are behind to a higher set. At this point, slow down and just call down the opponent if they bet. Also, if you are playing a relatively tight player and then they start raising you after catching what seems a harmless card, they have likely hit a set with a buried pair. If the card they just caught is higher than yours, slow down.

Buried pairs can be tricky hands to play at times, but when they hit they are among some of the more profitable hands in Seven Card Stud. Good luck to you at the tables.

Around the third level of play, the cat was semi let out of the bag regarding my ability to play. Before the start of the third level there were a couple of comments regarding my not being able to find a hand. I picked up a split pair of kings and raised. The older players looked at me as if to say, “Ok, you picked up kings” and they all folded. The two younger players stayed in the hand. This was the best case scenario for me.

I instantly picked up aces up on Fourth Street. I bet out and was called by both players. Fifth Street saw me pair my ace. I now held aces full. I naturally bet out, I received a call and then a raise. The kid that raised was showing three cards that were double gapped for a straight. Either this kid was raising with a straight or a big draw. Of course, I capped the betting. Both opponents called. The older gentlemen at the table were confused.

Sixth Street made a pair of threes for the one player that had called along with all the raising on fifth. I bet out, and now he raised. Now the player that had the two gapped straight showing was now showing a three flush. He three bet. I cap it. Both players call.

I bet out on seventh and this time the two opponents finally slowed down and only called. I looked at the guy at the table that appeared to be the best stud player and said “what do I have?” He said, “Aces full.” I show aces full against a set of threes and a flush.

At this point, I am now the chip lead. Over the course of the round, I eliminate both of the kids at the table. Finally, one of the players asks me, “Where are you from?” When, I tell them I am from Virginia, they instantly change their tune to, “Oh no wonder. You’re from the east coast. You grew up playing stud.” And the cat was out the bag.

I ended up going through and eliminating all but two of the players at the table. I got heads up with a low limit stud poker player from Los Angeles whom I cut a deal with. I had such a massive stack that he accepted my buyout offer of $100. When I am out in the LA area, I still run across him from time to time. He is an interesting gentleman. In his mid 70’s and can outrun most people half of his age.

If you are a younger person playing stud, remember the above story. Players will discount you due to your age. When this happens, just sit back and play your game. Over time, the astute players will figure out you know what you are doing. And for those that don’t, enjoy taking their money.

I have been playing stud most of my life and when I started playing live in 2006, the first thing I noticed was the distinct lack of respect for anyone under the age of 50 that sat down in a stud game. Even today, when I sit down in a stud game I get a lot of confused looks by players that haven’t been used to seeing me play. The floor staff even will react with confusion. When I ask what is being spread, they look at me and usually rattle off the holdem options. I get confused looks when I ask to be put on stud lists.

This type of stereotype can be helpful to you at the poker tables when playing stud. I view being a young person in a seven card stud game with older players almost on par as being a woman playing almost any poker game. Men generally look at women with either disdain or with a total lack of respect. That happens a bit with younger players at stud tables.

The second live poker game I ever played in a casino was a 7 card stud satellite at the WSOP Circuit Event in Tunica Mississippi in January 2006. Five players had been sitting around for a while waiting for the satellite to fill up. When I saw the game, I sat in. The five gentlemen were all much older than me, by at least 20 years or more. After about ten or fifteen minutes, two kids that were clearly holdem players sat down. Now, you will probably look at me and say, “Hey, you are talking about stereotypes and you just made a stereotypical statement.”

When you look at a kid that sits down with sunglasses, walkman, and baseball cap, do you think seven card stud? No. The other kid actually spoke up and said that he doesn’t normally play stud, but he thought he would help us get the game going. The older gentlemen did a collective sizing up of the two kids and then all sized me up. It was clear that they thought I was one of them.

Their assumptions were initially proven correct with the play of the two kids at the table. They had no real concept of how to play the game. They chased with bad pairs, chased bad draws, and couldn’t read what their opponents were potentially drawing after.

I will continue the rest of this story in my next entry.

First, a low is a hand of five unique cards eight and below.  That means that you cannot have pairs of any type in your hand.  Also, aces play both high and low in stud 8.  For instance, if you hold Kc-2d-Ah-6s-8c-9s-7h, you have an eight low (8-7-6-2-A).  Another example would be 7h-2c-5d-As-10s-Js-6c.  This hand contains a seven low (7-6-5-2-A).  How about a hand such as 6c-6s-2d-Ad-3c-Kh-4s?  This hand contains a six low (6-4-3-2-A).  The hand had a pair of sixes but there were four other unique cards to make a low.  What if you held 8c-8s-8d-5c-4c-2h-Ks?  You do not have a low in this hand.  Yes, you have 6 cards in your hand eight and below, but only four of those cards are unique.

Now that we have gone over identifying low hands, let’s look at scoop potential hands.  What do you hold if you have 8c-2c-4s-Ad-Ah-8s-5c?  In this example you hold two pair and an eight low.  Aces and eights are your two pair with 8-5-4-2-A for your low.  How about 4c-4s-4d-3s-2d-Ah-6h?   This is a set of fours with a six low (6-4-3-2-A).   Now let’s look at 6c-7c-5d-Ks-4d-3h-Qs.  What do you hold here?  You have a seven high straight and a seven low.  2c-4c-8c-6c-Ac-Ks-Qs would give you a flush with an eight low.  Low straights and low flushes can play both ways.   What about 6c-7d-8h-9d-10h-As-2c?   If you said a ten high straight with an eight low, you are correct.  As you can see, you do not need to use the same five cards for both high and low.  Also remember, if you have a high hand only, that hand can still scoop a pot if no one makes a qualifying low.

Now that you have a few examples of how to spot low hands and how to spot scoop hands, let’s review a few things to keep in mind that will help you quickly identify a low.  First, if you have 3 cards in your hand higher than 9, you cannot make a low.  If you have a full house, you will not make a low.  Aces play both ways, so don’t get locked into thinking that aces are high only.  Finally, if you are uncertain as to whether or not you have a low, turn your hand over.  In casinos, cards speak.  This means that when you show your hand, you do not have to announce it.  The dealer can read the hand for you and award the pot accordingly.  Granted, this is a dead giveaway that you are a rank beginner in the game, but at the same time get help if you need it.

Once you get the hang of reading low hands, reading them will become second nature.  I recommend getting a deck of cards and dealing some hands out and taking your time to identify low hands and potential scoop hands.  Once you feel comfortable, get yourself into a game.  Good luck to you.

The biggest mistake that most stud 8 poker players make is playing the game like stud high.  Playing hands such as pairs with big kickers, medium and high straights, and even high flush draws are all trap hands that will cost players money.  Some players will pick up a hand such as pocket queens or kings and then push them all the way to the river.

Another mistake players make is playing a lot of eight low draws.  Many players are confused as to why they shouldn’t play a lot of eight low draws.  They are of the mindset that if their opponent misses their draw, that their hand may be good.  This may be true, but you are relying more on luck in this scenario than on proper play.  There are times where you are going to chase down a hand with an eight low draw, but you need to stay away from playing every eight low draw that you come across.

Slow playing a rolled up set in stud 8 is a big mistake.  Stud high players are reading this with great confusion.  In stud high, you want to try and keep people in with your rolled up set as the hand is a very powerful starting hand.  In stud 8, rolled up sets are one way hands the majority of the time.  You want to play them fast to push out the mediocre hands and the weak low drawing hands.  A set is much more subsceptible to being outdrawn in stud 8 than in stud high.

Another mistake many players make is not paying attention to cards on the board when playing their hands.  When playing any stud game, you must keep track of the cards in other players hands.  This is more important in stud 8 than in other hands.  First you need to be able to determine which of your needed cards are potentially still available.  Next, you need to know what your other players are potentially drawing to.  When you know what is out there, you can make educated decision and calculated draws.  Otherwise, you are relegated to catching cards and gambling.

One mistake that almost every beginning player makes in stud 8 is trying to push players out when you hold the nuts.  When you have a hand where you have at least one side of the pot locked, you want to try and extract as many bets as possible.  Some players try to push players out in an attempt to win the pot right then.  That type of play will cost you bets.  When you have one side of the pot locked up, you need to do what you can to keep players in.

The rules for stud eight or better are almost identical to regular stud. The low card is still the bring-in on third, and the high hand opens the betting on all subsequent streets. The main difference in the two games is the low element of the game. A player can win half the pot if they hold a five card hand with five unique cards eight and below. This is known as a low. An ace can play high or low. Straights and flushes do not affect a low hand. The best low hand is the wheel. (A-2-3-4-5) If more than one player holds a low, then the best low hand wins the pot. For example, a 3-4-5-6-7 is lower than an A-2-3-4-8. The first player holds a 7 low and the other player has an eight low. In the event one player has both the best high hand and the best low hand, the player scoops the entire pot. The same thing occurs when no player hold a low.

The object of stud eight or better is to scoop pots. In order to do that, you need to start with hands that give you the best opportunity to scoop a hand. Starting hands in stud eight are much different than regular stud. First, as a beginning player, you need to stay away from almost all pair, including buried pairs with the exception of aces and occasionally kings. King are to be played very sparingly and I personally recommend not playing them against a raising ace.

Any pair from nines to kings are one way trap hands. You need to stay away from them. Some people will recommend playing low pair when you play stud eight. While learning the game, I recommend staying away from them. Playing low pairs is tricky and can be a losing proposition if you are still learning the game. Big straight draws and big flush draws should be avoided. Many regular stud players have a hard time getting away from these types of hands when first learning stud eight. I was the exact same way. In regular stud, big straight and big flush draws are potentially powerful hands. In stud eight, they are trap hands. At best you are drawing to half the pot.

Ideally you want to start with a three card low hand that is coordinated in some way. A low three card straight hand or a low three card flush hand are very powerful starting hands. Even gutshot low straights are decent starting hands. After low three card straights and low three card flushes, you want three low cards with an ace. Examples are 6-3-A, 7-2-A, and 7-3-A. As mentioned earlier, the only pair that you really should play safely is aces. Ideally, you will want a low card as a kicker with your aces. That way you have a chance to draw at a low. Another advantage is that if you start with aces and a low kicker and you pair your kicker, not many people are going to put you on two pair. Chances are they are going to put you on low and you can pick up some pots when a player playing a bad pair or a weaker two pair calls you down.

Let’s talk about eight low draws. Eight low draws are very tricky to play. You can play them profitably, but you must be careful. The best eight low draw to play is a three card straight or three card flush. These are relatively safe to play. Otherwise, playing an eight low can be costly, even an 8-2-A. Any 7 or better low beats you, and even a better eight low. This is one spot where position can actually help you in stud eight. If you are in late position against either just the bring in, or against high cards, then you can play the eight low draw. If other low cards come in the pot before you, you would be wise to fold all eight low draws other than three card low straights and flushes.

Let’s talk about playing rolled up sets for a minute. You may wonder why I mention playing sets as they seem pretty simple to play. Actually, you will want to play any rolled up set fast in stud eight, especially a high set. Most stud players will slow play a rolled up set in regular stud, and would be right to do so. In stud eight, this is a mistake. First, this is a one way hand only in most cases. You will not be able to take low. While you will start with the best hand, unless you improve to a full house, you hand can be outdrawn by a low straight or flush. Also, if you let a lot of low cards in, you are almost certain to chop the pot. Playing the hand fast will likely force some of the low draws out and give you better odds.

The next tip is the most important tip I can give you as a stud eight or better player. If you do not improve on fourth street, abandon the hand unless it is checked to you. When you miss on fourth street, you must catch two out of the remaining three cards in order to make a hand. While possible, you are drawing at long odds to catch your hand at this point. If your hand improves to a four low on fourth, you are almost even money to make your low. The rule of thumb that I used as a beginning player was that either I had to improve to a four low, a four flush, or catch a pair of aces on fourth in order to continue in the hand. In most other cases, I abandoned the hand.

Stud eight or better is a complex but profitable game for those that start off playing a solid game. You will find that many players that play this game really don’t grasp many of the concepts covered in this article. As a result, you may find most low limit stud eight games to be very profitable. With the above tips and practice, you should have the tools needed to become a solid stud eight player in short order. Good luck, and see you at the tables.